Tashkent is at its architectural best in the old part of the city that survived both the earthquake and the subsequent Soviet rebuilding.
In eski shakhar, there is the atmospheric Chorsu bazaar where one must go to see or buy the wares of Uzbekistan, plump raisins, rotund watermelons and juicy apricots (in season), carpets, ceramics, choy (for tea is the beverage of choice beating by a whisker, vodka), flavourful spices and herbs, the pulse of the city. Take your camera.
Near the domed Chorsu bazaar, called so for it is at a crossroad, is one of the old Islamic monuments that survived the seismic upheaval. The Kukeldash Madarsa was built in the 16th century overlooking the square where many a public execution was effected. The square no longer stands and well, nor does the tradition, the monument itself is being turned into a museum. The Barak Khan Madarsa on Khasty Imam Sq. is now the residence of the Mufti of the entire Central Asian region. The Tellya Sheikh mosque stands opposite the madarsa and is the main centre for Friday prayers in Tashkent. The Kaffal Shashi Mausoleum, the tomb of the great Uzbek physic, philosopher and poet who lived in the 10th century AD, Abu Bakr Muhammad Kafal Shashi Sheikh dates back to the 15th century.
Before 1917 Tashkent was divided into distinctly different old and new quarters – the new one peopled by the more westernised and mostly Christian Russians, the old one by native Uzbeks, mostly Islamic and fairly orthodox. The two quarters were divided by the Ankhor canal. The main street that ran through the old quarter is the main street in Tashkent today; the Navoi Prospekt, named so as a tribute to the Turkish poet Ali Shir Nava’i passes some of Tashkent’s chief attractions. The political focus of the city is on Mustakillik Square off which runs the Alleya Paradov (i.e. Boulevard of Parades) where most government buildings are situated, and the Revolution Garden. Mustakillik or Independence Square has been the Catholic Square owing to the preponderance of the nearby cathedral, and in Soviet times, the city’s Red Square. The cultural focus is on Theatre Square off which stand the monument to Ali Sher and the Navoi Academic Bolshoi Theatre of Opera and Ballet. One of the many outdoor attractions is the monument of courage that is dedicated to the Soviet people who came in droves from many of the socialist republics to help rebuild Tashkent after the massive 1966 earthquake.
Tashkent has museums in plenty, theatre, the opera and ballet flourish, it’s emporia stock ware from various regions of Uzbekistan. Don’t miss the Museum of Applied Arts where crafts from all over Uzbekistan are displayed in quiet rooms with muted lighting. The Museum of Fine Arts, one of the oldest in Uzbekistan, and has one of the richest collections of art in all of Central Asia. The Uzbek Puppet Theatre, the opera and ballet at the Navoi Theatre add drama and colour to the city’s life. The Amir Temur Museum celebrates the life of Uzbekistan’s most famous hero, Timur the Lame, captain courageous, ruthless ruler and great patron of the arts.