North Korea: Where Independent Travel Is Not Permitted

When we think of North Korea, the first thing that comes to our mind is nuclear weapons. The country has strange rules for traveling which strikes you at first. Travel to North Korea is only possible as part of a guided tour. Independent travel is not permitted. Only go if you are prepared to avoid causing any kind of trouble, bow to statues and only praise North Korea.

Visiting North Korea is a bureaucratic nightmare, and your every move will be monitored by your guides. There are those who have called for a boycott on tourism to North Korea, due to human rights abuses in the country or how tourism may help finance the government. There is no official free enterprise activity in North Korea, and all tourist facilities are state-owned so the money goes directly to the government of North Korea. Others cite the possible benefits of Westerners engaging with North Korean citizens, particularly in a positive, friendly manner (i.e. contrary to the stereotypes of Westerners presented by internal propaganda) — although your guides will generally do their best to stop you from actually meeting any ordinary citizens. Ordinary North Koreans are forbidden to interact with you without authorization from the government. Regardless of political beliefs, North Korea is generally acknowledged to be a unique place to visit. The traveller must make his or her own mind up about the rights and wrongs of visiting the country.

Citizens of the United States of America, South Korea and people of South Korean origin are normally not permitted to visit North Korea, although exceptions are occasionally made for special events such as the Arirang Mass Games. In addition, there have been reports of difficulties regarding Israeli and Japanese nationals. Citizens of all other countries will need a visa, which will only be issued after your tour has been booked, approved by the North Korean authorities and paid for. Journalists (or those suspected of being journalists) require special permission, which is quite difficult to obtain. A specialist North Korean travel agency can help you sort out the complex and ever-changing regulations. It should be noted that North Korea will rarely in practice refuse a visa to a tourist who meets the various requirements.

Most people travelling to North Korea will travel through Beijing. It is most likely you will pick up your visa from there. The North Korean consulate building is separate from the main embassy building at Ritan Lu, and can be found round the corner at Fangcaodi Xijie. It is open on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 0930-1130 and 1400-1730, and on all other days except Sundays from 0930-1130. Bring your travel permission, US$30 and two passport photos. However, most tour companies (such as Koryo Tours) will perform this service on your arrival in Beijing on your behalf.

Your guide will take your passport and keep it during your stay in North Korea. Make sure your passport looks decent and doesn't differ from the most common passports from your country. North Korean immigration may get suspicious and demand a "fine" or keep your passport when you leave if they don't like what they see.