Seoul is an intriguing city transforming itself from the Yi Dynasty capital of the Hermit Kingdom to a major mover and shaker on the international scene, especially in the field of commerce and sports. Nowhere else is the Korean drive to come to terms with a turbulent and fractured past so evident.
Seoul was battered by Japanese and Manchu invasions in the 16th and 17th centuries and flattened by the Korean War; most of its cityscape is modern. Overshadowed by high-rises and 12-lane freeways, it yet retains a hidden history of centuries-old temples, palaces, pagodas and pleasure gardens.
Seoul is so vast in size that getting to grips with it takes a while. The city is divided in two by the Han River (Hangang), which runs east to west across the city. The Joseon-era historical core of the city, containing most palaces and government offices, lies on the north side in and around the district of Jongno, overlooked by the 262-meter peak of Namsan. The south of the river, known as Gangnam, is more 'uptown' and more modern. The island of Yeoui-do, in the river, is the closest Seoul gets to Manhattan with skyscrapers, the National Assembly and the Seoul Stock Exchange.
Palaces In Seoul
As the ancient seat of Korea's royalty, there are no fewer than 5 major palaces in Seoul, and some are definitely worth a visit.
Gyeongbok-gung, Yulgukno (subway Gyeongbokgung). Seoul's grandest palace and the seat of power for centuries before it was razed in 1592 by a Japanese invasion (and they did a repeat after 1910). Large parts have now been restored and the vast grounds also house the Joseon Palace Museum and the Korean Folk Museum. Entry W3000, open 9 AM to 5 PM daily except Tuesday.
Changdeok-gung, Yulgukno (subway Anguk). Second only to Gyeongbokgung in historical importance, this was first built in 1405 and was the seat of power between 1618 and 1896. The buildings have all been recently restored and freshly repainted, creating a dazzling but still elegant effect that got the palace listed as Seoul's only UNESCO World Heritage Site. Buildings of particular note include the blue-roofed Seonjeongjeon, which was the king's office, and the Daejojeon ("Great Making Hall"), his bedchamber, but most famous of all is the Biwon ("Secret Garden") in the back. Access to the complex is by guided tour only (W3000) except on Thursdays when only self-guided tours are available. Korean-language tours run every half hour but English tours are offered at 11:30 AM, 1:30 PM and 3:30 PM (as of September 2005). Closed Mondays.
Deoksu-gung, (subway City Hall). Located in downtown Seoul across the street from City Hall, Deoksu Palace vividly contrasts to the other nearby palaces like Changdeok Palace. Built during the mid-fifteenth century, the architecture of the buildings inside are heavily influenced with Western designs. Hence, you will see a fusion of both Korean and Western architecture. Closed on Mondays.
Admission: Adults (19 to 64 years old): 1,000 won (groups: 800 won) Children (7 to 18 years old) and soldiers: 500 won (groups: 400 won)
Children 6 and under, seniors 65 and over: Free
ChangGyeong-gung, (Subway line 4, Hyehwa Station, exit 4). Originally built in 1104 as a summer palace for the kings of the Koryo Dynasty, it became one of the main palace during the Joseon Dynasty. The palace was used as a temporary home for the king during the time Gyeongbuk Palace was being built. Unlike other palaces that has a North-South orientation, ChangGyeong Palace faces East-West. Also, what is famous about this palace is the fact it connects to Jongmyo Shrine, a holy place for the Joseon Dynasty, where sacrificial rites are practiced for previous kings and queens.
Closed every Tuesdays Admission: Adults (19 to 64 years old): 1,000 won (groups: 800) Children (7 to 18 years old): 500 won (groups: 400)
Children 6 and under, seniors 65 and over: Free
Parks
4.19 Memorial Cemetery. 224 people were killed during the April 19 Movement, and were buried in this cemetery. It became a national cemetery in 1995. This place has a museum, several statues, and a mausoleum. It is a popular place, for it is rather a park where you can come and take a rest.
Boramae Park, was formerly the site of the Korean Air Force Academy, which in 1986 turned into a park - Boramae, or hawk in English, symbolizes the Air Force. The size of the park is about 360,000 square meters and its sports facilities, a small zoo, a pond, and walking paths are well designed. The huge pond, which is 9,000 square meters, is surrounded by willow trees and benches, and people love to come. The pond is full of cool shades during the summer, and is spectacular when snow falls in the winter.
Mt. Namsan Park, is located in the center of Seoul and considered a symbol of Seoul. Namsan Park is an ecology-island surrounded by urban districts. In spite of being an urban ecology-island, wild animals live in the park. Located in the middle of Seoul, the mountain filled with pine trees can be seen from almost every corner of the big city and the residents of the areas surrounding the hills enjoy the fresh mountain air.
Olympic Park, was built for the 1986 Asian Games and the 1988 Seoul Olympics. A lake, a large field covered with the grass, and a square with sculptures are very popular among visitors. It is frequently visited by brides and grooms to take their wedding pictures. There are a couple of courses that are ideal for jogging or walking. In addition, the outdoor stage and the six stadiums are often used for concerts and other special events.
Tapgol ("Pagoda") Park. A small park frequented by the elderly and the footsore traveller. Contains the namesake pagoda under protective glass, and a nice large gazebo to get out of the sun. Acts a navigation landmark when moving between Myeongdong, Jongno and Insadong neighborhoods.
Yangjae Citizen's Forest. You will find a forest on your right if you drive through Gangnam Street. It's a park with streams and a clear view of the sky. There are over 106,600 trees planted in it, and it's a very popular picnic spot for young students.
Yeouido Park . More than 30,000 visit it on the weekdays and over 60,000 people visit it on weekends, respectively. The size of the park is 230,000 square meters. There is a traditional Korean forest, and in many other places you can enjoy concerts, cycling, or taking walks. Hundreds of trees and flowers offer you shade and an opportunity to relax. It is recommended to visit the three ponds. There are also basketball courts, so feel free to stop by and play. For a nominal fee, one can also rent bicycles or rollerblades for use at the park.
Yongsan Park reminds you of famous parks in other countries that you might have seen in some movies. Large grass fields and thick forests will make you feel much relieved from bustling city life ; you will see many kinds of birds and trees. The park once used as U.S military base camps. In 1992, Seoul City bought the land and built the park.
What To Do
Horse Racing can be found at Seoul Racetrack in Kwach'on. Races are normally only held during weekends, night racing also takes place during August. During the week, visitors can take guided tours of the grounds. Everland is the Korean version of Disney. It is south of Seoul and transportation by bus is the easiest way to get there. Non-stop buses to Everland leave from various parts of Seoul daily. Has a miniature zoo where one can see a lion-tiger hybrid.
Seoulland is a theme park located in Seoul. This park was opened just before the Olympics in 1988. It is easy to get to by subway and is open year round. Children's Grand Park is located in Neung-dong, Gwangjin-gu. The park was constructed after the decision of the City Planning Facility in 1971 and was opened on May 5, 1973. The park has a zoo, amusement facilities and restaurants. To get there, simply take the subway to Children's Grand Park. Avoid weekends because the crowds are fierce!
Lotte World is located in Seoul. It has a folk museum where one can have an insight into ancient Korean life.
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