And there you have Ithaca - or Ithaki as the Greeks know it - in a nutshell. An island. Tucked away in the northern corner of the Ionian Sea. A land of barren, rocky cliffs. Wild. And yet beautiful.
A land of olive trees, cheese, raisins and wine, Ithaki is best known as being the kingdom of the mythical hero Odysseus. Historically, it is believed that Ithaki’s first inhabitants were indigenous Greeks; as time passed, the island came under the rule of foreign powers, including the Romans, the Normans, the Turks, the Venetians, the French, and the Italians. It’s had a tumultuous history, as you’ve probably guessed.
Ithaki today is a quiet, beautiful island, mainly frequented by those who want to walk along its mountain trails, visit its monasteries, or attempt a revival of Homer’s epic. The Moni Katharon monastery, which offers a spectacular view from its bell tower, is amongst Ithaca’s oldest monasteries, as is the Monastery of the Archangels at Perahori. The Nimfon Cave- the Cave of the Nymphs- is supposed to be the cave where Odysseus hid treasures given to him by the Phaeacians who brought him to Ithaki at the end of the Trojan war. The Fountain of Arethousa and the ruins of a Palace, reputed to be that of Odysseus, are also part of the legend of the famous hero. In Ithaki’s capital, Vathy, the Archaeological Museum contains valuable artefacts from pre-historic, ancient and medieval Ithaki. History enthusiasts might also like to visit the pre-historic ruins of Marathia and Pelicata, both of which are important archaeological sites.
Ithaki does not have its own airport; but there is one on neighbouring Cephalonia island. Daily flights connect Athens to Cephalonia, from where regular ferries do the trip to Ithaki. Patras, Astakos, Italy and, Corfu and a few other nearby ports are linked by ferry to Vathy.
Ithaki’s lack of development as a tourist destination means there’s not much choice when it comes to accommodation, dining and entertainment, but there’s enough to keep you comfortable. Vathy has two mid-range hotels, and a fair number of budget hotels, inns and private rooms; several tavernas; and the odd roadside café.