Aleppo Travel Guide

Aleppo, in northern Syria, is known for its towering citadel and the biggest covered souk (market place) in the Middle East. Situated on the crossroads of several important trade routes, Aleppo was known as the "Great Syrian Passage" because it strategically connected Mesopotamia and Persia to the Mediterranean Sea. About 350 km away from Damascus, the capital city, Aleppo is about 8000 years old. Because of repeated invasions, the city is virtually a melting pot of diverse cultures with Muslim Arabs, Armenians, Russians and Greek Orthodox Christians living within its boundaries.

The most impressive sight in Aleppo is the colossal Citadel of Aleppo that dominates the entire city. Surrounded by a moat, the citadel has a bridge on the south side, which leads to a large, fortified gate, dating from the 12th century. The interior is mostly ruined, although there is an excellent view of the city from a vantage point on the walls. The citadel's throne room has been well restored. It is an example of Islamic military architecture and has the Royal armoury and two mosques.

Aleppo's main attraction is the fascinating area of covered souks, a maze of narrow, twisting streets, reaching 7km (4.5 miles) in length, under a vaulted, stone roof. Absolutely everything is sold here, from spices to meat to prayer-mats.

The Grand Mosque (Jami'a Zakariyyeh) dates from the 11th century A.D. and is situated at the northern edge of the souk area. The mosque is named after Zakariah, the father of John the Baptist. You can visit several other mosques and caravansarais (watering point for caravans) which are worth seeing

Aleppo's museums are the Archaeological Museum in the centre of town, containing many artefacts and statues from local sites, and the Museum of Popular Tradition, situated in the Souk as Souf (wool market). This contains examples of weapons, clothing and furniture from Syria's past.

At some distance from the city are the ancient Roman tombs of Qatura; the church ruins and pyramid tombs at Al-Bara; excavations of the Hittite temple at Ain Dara; the ruins of the 3rd century town of Cyrrhus; the famous excavations of the ancient city of Ebla, where thousands of cuneiform tablets have been unearthed.

There are several sites of Dead Cities nearby, and though little remains of the Byzantine era, yet they are fascinating places to visit. The Church of St. Simeon, near Aleppo, was the largest Christian structure in the Middle East and was built in the 4th century.

If you’re here to shop, Aleppo offers excellent bargains in its covered souk, 7km long. You can buy anything ranging from rugs and kilims, gold and silver jewellery to copper and brassware. The mother of pearl and olive wood carving, weaving and embroidery of Syria are famous. Inlaid backgammon boards and jewellery boxes are a good buy. You can also buy the embroidered tablecloth and traditional clothing such as 'kaffiyeh' (head scarf) and ‘iqal’ (black cord) that is characteristic of this region.

Bargaining is expected and the price is always inflated. Shops are open Saturday to Thursday from 9.30 am to 2 pm and from 4.30 pm to 9 pm (or 8 pm in winter). Most shops are closed on Friday, but markets remain open. Shopping hours can be shorter in the fasting month of Ramadan.

Because the city of Aleppo is a melting pot of nationalities and cultures, there is a fine selection of local dishes in the restaurants of the modern town. Arab, Turkish, Kurdish, Armenian and Assyrian dishes are all available for the visitor to sample and enjoy.

There are bars serving a wide range of alcoholic drinks. Alcohol is permitted but restrictions are imposed during Ramadan when it is illegal to drink in public from dawn to dusk, even for non-Muslims.

Getting to Aleppo is easy. Aleppo International Airport is 30 km east of the city and is well connected by buses and service taxis to the city centre. There are regular flights to Aleppo from Europe, other countries in the Middle East and Africa and Asia, and from internal towns and cities. You could be driving in from Damascus, about 5 hours away, or indeed from Turkey, Egypt, Jordan, Saudi Arabia and Lebanon directly to Aleppo, but you must have the car registration papers and an international driving permit. Third party insurance at the border is a necessity as well. Istanbul (Turkey) has buses to Aleppo and further to Amman (Jordan) and Medina (Saudi Arabia). This is a route often used by pilgrims on their way to Medina, a Muslim holy site. You can also take a dolmus (shared taxi) from Turkey to the Syrian border and then take a microbus to Aleppo. Beirut (Lebanon), Amman (Jordan), Istanbul and Antakya (Turkey) are also connected to Aleppo by bus routes. Every Thursday the train from Haydarpasa railway station on the Asian side of Istanbul (Turkey) leaves for Aleppo.

In the city you could rent a car or take a taxi. Decide the fare in advance, though the taxis are metered. Buses operate but signs are not in English – so it’s a bit difficult if you don’t know the local language.

Spring is the best time to go as temperatures are mild and the winter rains may have cleared the haze that obstructs the view most of the time. Autumn is also a good choice as temperatures are mild and the rains haven’t set in as yet. Summers can get really hot and dry and the average temperature is about 40 to 42 degrees Centigrade. In summer carry sun block, sun hat and sunglasses. You would also be wise to carry pet supplies and personal hygiene cosmetics (you may not get your brands easily).

Hotels in Aleppo range from luxury to budget. Accommodation must be confirmed especially in the high tourist season. There is one official camping site in Aleppo but it is slightly out of the city and may be inconvenient if you do not have your own transport. Check the credentials of inexpensive hotels, as they can often be sleazy.