Welcome To The Heart of India - Delhi

Don't let your first impressions of Delhi stick like a sacred cow in a traffic jam: get behind the madcap façade and discover the inner peace of a city rich with culture, architecture and human diversity, deep with history and totally addictive to epicureans.

Both Old and New Delhi exert a beguiling charm on visitors. Lose yourself unwinding the secrets of the city's Mughal past in the labyrinthine streets of Old Delhi before emerging into the wide open spaces of imperial New Delhi, with its ordered governmental vistas and generous leafy avenues.

How To Get There

Indira Gandhi International Airport (IGI, IATA: DEL) is the arrival point for many visitors into Delhi. The airport has a terrible reputation, long well-deserved, but it has improved considerably since it was taken over by an international consortium and, for example, it's now possible to enter the toilets without a gas mask. Most terminals have basic facilities like money changing and restaurants, but the major problem remains overcrowding — during the peak hours (middle of the night for int'l flights, early morning for domestic), it can be tough to find a patch of floor to sit on, never mind a seat.

The airport is split into three terminals, with the domestic terminals 1A and 1B commonly known as Palam Airport.

Terminal 1A (Domestic): Indian and Kingfisher
Terminal 1B (Domestic): All other domestic flights (except Air India)
Terminal 2 (International): All international flights and Air India domestic flights
Terminals 1A and 1B are fairly close (around 0.5kms), but both are a long way from Terminal 2 and you should reserve at least three hours to connect.

If you are making connections, it can take between 15 and 30 minutes once you exit one terminal to get to the other one by car, depending on time of day and traffic. There is supposed to be a free shuttle bus between T1 and T2, but it runs only once per hour. (On the upside, it crosses through the airport, and can be much faster than detouring on the congested roads outside like taxis do.)

Security at the airport is tight, so you should show up at least two hours before your flight is schduled, even though nearly all flights are delayed for several hours or more. In Terminal 2, carry-on is limited to one (1) bag and all hold baggage must be X-rayed and sealed before check-in. Note that all lounges and tax-free shops are between immigration and the final security check: once you pass the final check, there is no way back and nothing to do, so plan accordingly.

The easiest and safest way to get from the airport to the city is to arrange transport ahead of time from your hotel (some hotels provide this service for free). Alternatively, reserve a taxi from the prepaid taxi booths in the international terminal (it is advised to to check your change). Then, go straight through the airport and turn right immediately outside the front doors. Here you are assigned a cab number. There are several options, but the booth operated by the "Delhi Police" is considered the best, with non-A/C taxis to most points in the city Rs.200-300. Some good-humored visitors find that being shortchanged by the police is actually an excellent introduction to what they can expect during the rest of their visit to Delhi. If you don't view it this way, however, try to appear familiar with the currency, carefully count out your payment and your change, and do not use a large bill.

Do not give the receipt to the driver until you get to the destination as this is what they are paid on. Also, ignore any explanation the driver offers at the destination to explain why he requires additional payment. Take your baggage first, then give the driver the receipt and walk away without further discussion. It is also possible to take a city bus during the day, or a private one run 24 hours a day. As everywhere in India, ignore taxi touts!

During the winter (Dec-Jan), Delhi often experiences dense fog and visibility is reduced considerably, making it difficult for flights to land and take off. Often there are diversion of flights or cancellation- for both International and Domestic flights. Plan your flights accordingly and allow for 1-2 days of possible delays.

Best Time To Go

Summer in Delhi is no joke - from April the temperature climbs relentlessly to more than 45°C (113°F) in May and June and the heat doesn't really abate until October. Dust storms called loo sweep in from Rajasthan with considerable fury. The arrival of the monsoon, at the end of June, brings intense humidity - the murder rate usually peaks in this month.

From November to March is the best time to visit, with cool but sunny weather. Also, Holi, one of the most exuberant Hindu festivals, takes place around this time, in February or March. October sees the end of the monsoon, but is reasonably pleasant, although the days can still be pretty hot. Nights can be quite chilly in December and January.