If you want to see Estonia in your own time and at your own pace – rent-a-car is an ideal option. The roads are in fairly good condition, traffic density is low and places of interest are within easy reach of each other. There are many rental agencies in Tallinn. You need to have a passport and in addition, an International Driving license. European Union citizens can make do with their regular license. Estonians drive on the right. Exercise basic caution on forested stretches and in the winter, against wild animals on the track and icy road conditions. Do not drink and drive: the Estonians are extremely strict about this.

Bus services are efficient but train connections are available only between major cities. Since the topography is fairly plain you could get on a bicycle and pedal through the countryside in glorious summer weather. The islands are very good for cycling.

Flying within the country is costly but obviously cuts down on travel time. Regular domestic services are available between Tallinn and Kuressaare (Saaremaa) and Kärdla (Hiiumaa), and charter flights fly between Tartu and Tallinn. At time of writing flights to the islands were inoperable in the winter months.

Ferries connect the mainland with the larger islands and boats will take you across Lake Peipus and the Emajõgi River.

Larger towns have tramways and buses and both get packed like a can of sardines. You can hire cabs – they are abundant and inexpensive.