Smoked fish is an area of Estonian culinary expertise: smoked trout or suitsukala is finger licking good food. At Christmas, verevorst or sausages prepared from fresh blood and vere pannkoogid or blood pancakes will definitely land on your plate. The only excuse for this stomach churning gourmet delight is –"it’s tradition" – and that puts an end to all questions of where and why it came about.

From the regular pork chops and potatoes to the delights of pink smoked pike, Estonian cuisine is largely non-vegetarian. It’s available in plenty at cafes, restaurants, bars and pubs anywhere in the country. In Tallinn now one finds pizzerias and Italian pasta, but by and large international foods are not very well represented in Estonia. Snacks may be bought off the shelves at department and food stores, and budget travellers will find that cafes and bars are an inexpensive dining option.

To down this stuff you will be given some Vana Tallinn a syrupy liqueur no one really knows the antecedents of. It is cloyingly sweet, very strong and a must on the Estonian table. You can try it with coffee, over ice with milk and in case you are feeling bold then with champagne. If you are looking for beer ask for Saku and in case you like heavier beer there is Saare, which comes from Saaremaa. Try hõõgvein at one of the cafes or bars. It is a very tasty and warming mulled wine.

The bigger cities like Tallinn, Tartu, which is basically a university town, and Pärnu have discos and pubs where one can dance into the wee hours of the morning. In smaller towns the choice of entertainment is limited to bars where you’re sure to find local wine and beer.